There's nothing better than surfing your homebreak on a good swell. Yeah, other spots may be bigger, more hollow, less crowded .... whatever. There's a spot in Hawaii (sorry I can't say exactly where) that we've been visiting for the past few years and there's this super-fickle reefbreak that only goes off on a BIG swell and in the narrowest of swell windows. In the years past, it always seems we just seem to miss the swells that make this place go off, so we usually have to find other spots to surf. Well, this time we finally got lucky and our visit was timed perfectly with a nice sized Hawaiian swell (i.e. North Shore was double to triple OH). This swell was able to wrap through for some fun-sized shoulder-head high surf, all day on friday.
I was able to test our 6'8" bio-epoxy/hemp board which made the quick pitching drops nicely. The EPS core keeps this board fairly light given the bio-glassing treatment and was super maneuverable and loose. Being a regular foot, I'm never great at surfing backhand. So we left this board with some friends who are full-time watermen and truly believe in the boards we're making. We're hoping they can give the bioboard a run for its money in some pure Hawaiian juice. Looking forward to hearing what they have to say. Thanks to the O.P. crew for helping us out with some R&D!
Saturday, the swell declined fast so we took to the SUPs for some fun, knee-high lefts. We rode the S.O.S. (Sean Ordonez Shapes) 11'11 and 10'10 Big Red and Big Blue shapes. Really versatile SUP shapes that can be surfed off the tail. http://www.sosshapes.com/2006/home.html
By Sunday, it was flat, so we took to the 6 man canoes, and were able to see and HEAR a group of humpbacks who had been hanging out off the coast for the past few weeks. Truly an incredible experience, especially to hear them communicate. Here's one our cousin Pete caught on his camera. Thanks to Danny for the paddle out.
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